Custom Build Mudroom Bench – Putting it All Together

This is it guys, the last step is the BEST step because you’re almost done!! So far we’ve made a bench, cushioned it, made some shelves, and now we just need to put it all together!

If you haven’t seen the first three steps in this four part series, check out the links below:

This post contains affiliate links. I receive a small commission for anyone who clicks on a link and purchases a product. All product links, affiliate and otherwise, represent my unbiased opinion about the product.


  • Thin wood trim – Icing on the cake.
  • Panel Board Nails – These are great for nailing small things and plus, they’re just really fun to nail.
  • Wood Putty – This stuff is both super cheap and super effective. It is NOT wall putty for drywall, I’ll explain below.
  • Paint – Dealer’s choice, though I recommend something slightly glossier because it cleans better.

Step 1: Trimming

At this point, the bench is done except for putting the chest lid on with the piano hinges and the shelves are up on the wall.

Adding the trim requires a little math. There are a bunch of different ways to do it, but here’s how I calculated where to put the trim. I put up the two pieces of trim that are at the ends of the shelves first. From there, I measured from the corner to the trim on one wall, subtracted the width of the trim I was going to add (two lengths), divided it by 3 ( the number of spaces between the trim) and rounded out the numbers.

For example:

(distance from corner to inside of outermost trim) – (width of trim x 2) / 3 = ?

38″ – (1 5/16″ x 2) / 3 = ?

(38″ – 2.625) / 3 = ?

35.375 / 3 = 11.791667 or about 11.75

I then measured 11.75″ from the corner and put a piece of trim there and measured 11.75″ from the inside of the outermost trim and put a piece of trim there.

After the math was done, this was probably my favorite part of the project! I LOVE hammering in little nails… I’ve always wondered if that was due to this toy I had growing up:

Honestly I went to go get a picture of this to post and thought I MIGHT be able to find an archived image – never in my wildest dreams did I imagine it would still be sold!! I’m buying it for every small child in my life.

Anyway, I didn’t mount the bench to the wall. I felt no need to since it’s ridiculously heavy and sturdy. Also, there’s a vent for the cooling system behind it so I didn’t want to permanently cover it up. In fact there’s a little space, about a quarter inch, between the bench and the wall which the cushions cover up nicely.

Originally I was going to add trim around the flat sections of the bench for a little more pizazz, but the trim is so ridiculously expensive for what you get, I couldn’t get myself to do it.

Step 2: Filling

Step 1 of step 2, get yourself some of this glorious muck.

Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty

No one is paying me to say this stuff is a must-have especially at a whopping $1.96 per can and they last a LONG time! It’s a powder and you don’t even need to read the instructions: just pour some of it into a (preferably disposable) cup, add water little by little until you got yourself a paste, and slather it onto any crack that needs filling.


As I said before, THIS STUFF IS NOT PLASTER FOR FIXING DRYWALLS, although you can totally use it for that. The big difference is written right around the strong man’s legs.


They are not joking. Unlike with plaster when you can schlub it on and sand off the copious extra, you can’t do that with this stuff – it’ll take forever. Instead, fill the holes/gaps and use a scraper to level it as much as possible, let it dry, then add more if needed so your sanding time is minimal. This stuff really is like sanding rock. That said, for a mudroom bench that gets kicked around a lot, the rock-solid aspect is brilliant. See how I filled a huge chunk in the side of the chest part? If it gets kicked, not harm done. If I filled it will plaster and it got kicked, I’d have a crumbly mess and a new hole.

Let’s review in a nice TL:DR

Durham’s Rock Hard Water PuttyWall Plaster
Use for:
* Things that get kicked around
* Filling wood
* Overfill the gap/crack or you’ll be sanding for years
Use for:
* Filling holes in drywall
* Delicate areas
* Use in places that get a lot of love/abuse

If you’ll notice, I use Durham’s Putty on the wall to fill a crack there, but I do so with just a tiny bit of putty and I only use it because I’m too lazy to make up a batch of plaster.

I mixed up steps 2 & 3 a bit when I decided I hadn’t done enough filling after I painted, so I refilled and repainted!

After filling everything then letting it dry, sand it all like crazy!

Step 3: Painting

I’ll try not to be too long-winded here because painting this is just, well, painting.

I went to Home Depot and found their “oopsie” section and chose a color from there. Then I, well I painted. I’m honestly not sure what tips to give here other then do proper prep work (putting down drop-cloths and taping off sections you don’t want painted) and if your bench isn’t bolted down, pull it away from the wall so you can paint the wall way down and paint around to the back side of the bench so you’re not A) missing any parts or B) “gluing” the bench to the wall with paint.

Don’t forget to paint the chest lid!

Step 4: Attaching the Top of the Chest

Place the chest lid exactly where it should be when the chest is closed. Eyeball where you want your hinges to go, then do a quick measurement to make sure they’re equal. Once they’re where you want them, use a sharp pencil to mark the holes where the screws should go. Remove the hinges and drill some pilot holes, then screw the hinges on!

Step 5: That’s It!

Let me know if anything’s confusing/weird/needs clearing up! And as always, please share your DIYs!



Custom Built Mudroom Bench – DIY Shelves

If you haven’t seen part 1 of this Mudroom Bench series, click here!

Having a mudroom bench is lovely, but to really make a small mudroom functional, you need to use all of your vertical space. I planned my mudroom to have three levels of storage: Low, with shoes, medium, with jackets, and high, with hats/mittens and jazz.

This post contains affiliate links. I receive a small commission for anyone who clicks on a link and purchases a product. All product links, affiliate and otherwise, represent my unbiased opinion about the product.


  • 8″ Common Board – Common board is pretty well priced and 1″ is a good thickness for this project.
  • 6″ Common Board – See above.
  • 2.5″ Screws – These ones!!! Save yourself so much time and stress and just get these buggers. You know me, I’m a cheapskate, but these are so 100% worth it. They self-drill into 2x4s and ply and countersink themselves. HOWEVER, you’ll need to drill pilot holes into the common board used in this project because we’ll be drilling so close to the edges of the wood.
  • 1 5/8″ Screws – Again, these ones!!! See above.
  • Wood glue – Truth be told, I hold no allegiance to any particular wood glue brands, but this one is inexpensive and works perfectly well.
  • Wood Putty – This stuff is both super cheap and super effective.

Step 1: Making 2 “L” Shaped Shelves

The image above shows the piece of wood that will be attached to the wall sitting on top of the shelf bit (that juts out). The line shows how thick the wood I’m screwing it into so that the screws can be inserted right into the middle of the board.

The top line shown above is the line I made marking the thickness of the wood and the bottom line is the exact center from the edge of the board to the top line. The center line is where to drill the screws!

Oh, also I broke a drill bit in the wood, so that’s in my shelf forever.

Step 2: Putting the 2 “L” Shaped Shelves into a “V”

Are the letters helping? I don’t think they’re helping.

One shelf is pointing toward the bottom left, the other to the bottom right, and in the middle is a small piece of wood bridging the gap between the two wall boards.

Some annotations might help.

Step 3: Making the Braces

Sub Steps in Order of Images Above:

  1. Print out a pretty, squiggly line with one side the length of the wall mount and one side the length of the shelf.
  2. Cut the squiggly line out of wood TERRIBLY. Twice. And I mean REALLY poorly on both.
  3. Clamp the two squigglies together and sand them together so at least they look the same and can totally fool the unsuspecting eye.

My jerry-rigged setup for clamping the shelf down to I could screw on the brace and sand it down.

Step 4: Attaching this Bad Boy to the Wall

If you have a bit of an older home like I do, odds are you’ve got some of these lovely trimmings in the corner. They’re made out of such soft wood, you can just use a hammer to tap a chisel into it and it’ll eventually just slice out giving you a nice clean corner in which to install your shelf.

These next three steps are the easiest way to install your shelf. Measure where you want the screws to be (I chose a zig-zag pattern, six screws per wall mount) then screw some pilot holes.

Put the shelf on the wall where you want it (make sure to level it!) and take something pointy like an awl or a small screwdriver and push it into the holes in the shelf, hard. This will make marks on the wall.

Take the shelf off the wall and drill pilot holes into the wall where the marks you just made are. Add drywall anchors if needed.

Screw all of the screws into the shelf until they just poke out of the back a tiny bit. Put the shelf back on the wall and screw the screws the rest of the way in!

Step 5: Spackle and Paint

Ta-dah! Shelf! All that’s left to do is smear some of that wood putty into any holes, sand the putty down, then paint it!

I’ll go into more of that later since I did the bench and shelves all at once.

Until then, happy woodworking!



Slippery and Sticky – The Miserable Combo of Removing a Carpet from a Hardwood Floor

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Tweet, "baby boomers blame millennials for everything BUT WHO PUT CARPET OVER ALL THESE HARDWOOD FLOORS PATRICIA"

I totally get it that styles change, but I don’t get how it’s possible to not LOVE hardwood floors! I have pretty bad allergies so carpets are my kryptonite, but even if that weren’t an issue, I love how easy they are to keep clean and how versatile they are! Heck, even if I decide I’m not about wood floors anymore, I can throw a carpet down – I can’t throw a wood floor over a carpet.

Plus, and I can’t stress this enough, wood floors don’t smell. They CAN I guess since they’re semi-porous, but not like carpet. When my husband and I bought our new house, every time we walked in we were struck by an awful odor which we eventually determined to be the old carpet. It had to go!

We peeled up one corner with fingers crossed and…

There she is: the elusive hardwood floor

Woot! Hardwood!!

Now’s the easy part, right? Pull up the carpet, give the new floor a quick wash, and pull up any carpet tacks left over, easy!

My mother and I decided to tackle this project while my husband was in Canada on business, so the two of us

gingerly peeled

no that’s not right,

carefully tugged

that’s not right either…

FORCEFULLY MUSCLED a corner of the carpet up.

That’s right about when we realized this wasn’t going to be as easy as we’d hoped.

Like many carpets, this one was completely glued down. Not only did we have to battle the carpet to get it up, but then we had to battle the floor itself trying to make it walkable.

So, for those of you smart enough to do your research FIRST and not get stuck in a way stickier mess than you’d intended, here’s how we de-carpeted our mudroom.

The ONLY difference between these two rooms is the missing carpet and the new rug for under the washer and dryer.

First, gather your materials:

  • Goo Gone – I learned a thing: there are different strengths of Goo Gone! Get the Pro Strength, and get a lot. You know how much you’re thinking right now? Get more. Besides, even if you don’t need it all it’s not like it won’t get used eventually.
  • Wallpaper scraper – THIS ONE!!! And just buy it on Amazon – they’re not sold anywhere else, I’ve looked. The only reason I had one is because my grandmother bought it a long, long time ago and we happened to find it. The one I linked is the most ergonomic design and I can’t for the life of me figure out why they’re not everywhere. Scraping up paint and glue is exhausting and really hard on the wrists. I can honestly say that my mother and I wouldn’t have been able to do this project in a weekend without this tool. 
  • Other scrapers – Regular metal scrapers work well for some things, too. We tried the plastic ones but they were way too weak to be helpful.
  • Razors – Just your regular, run-of-the-mill razors can be helpful to have on hand for tougher sticky things.
  • Utility knife – bonus, this comes with razor blades so you don’t need to buy more!
  • Scrub brush – This is perfect because you can just toss in the trash it when you’re done and you’re only out a dollar!
  • Scrub pad – This one has a handle so I highly recommend it. Like the scrub brush: buy, use, toss.
  • Junk Towels or rags – If you don’t have any junk towels, get yourself some cheap shop rags. You’ll need paper towels too but don’t rely on them!
  • Paper towels – I’ve got these guys on a monthly delivery with Amazon. I did my research, these are an excellent price!
  • A bucket – preferably a bucket you can throw out at the end of the project like the one linked here.
  • Krud Kutter – or any other grease cutting cleaner.
  • Plastic drop cloths – Waterproof is important.
  • Some tools – Just pull out your toolbox and keep it nearby. Some things we needed were a hammer to pull out the nails in the threshold covers and a flathead screwdriver to pry up the carpet tack strips in the doorways.

STEP 1: Pulling up the carpet

To get the carpet up, you’re gonna need some muscle. My mother and I would both pull, then she’d lightly tug it as I cut chunks off with the utility knife. We ended up with about 4 chunks of carpet in the end. 

The picture is super blurry because I was trying to take it fast! We had to strain to keep the rug taut enough for a good cut.

Mom tripped onto the gooey wood floor and her socks immediately stuck so when she stumbled back, she stumbled right out of them!

Not sure if the advice here is TO wear socks or NOT to wear socks…

One corner up!

See the pup in the bottom righthand corner? Don’t let them get so close! She wandered onto the wood while we were focused on other things and cried as she unstuck herself to get back on the carpet… She spent the rest of the time locked in another room.

STEP 2: Goo Gone time!!


At this point you have two options: spray the Goo Gone onto the wood in MASSIVE amounts then immediately begin to scrape and be done in a half hour, 


spray the Goo Gone onto the wood in MASSIVE amounts then wait 15 minutes before you scrape, and still be done in a half hour.

Basically, be impatient and work much harder or be patient and reap the benefits.

Trust me – my mother and I tried both ways and we learned to be very, very patient.

Will Goo Gone ruin hardwood floors??

We did a lot of research on this (worried about the same thing) and everyone seemed to have roughly the same conclusion: it’s the best option. You might end up marring the finish, but the hardwood has been sitting under carpet for years anyway so the Goo Gone won’t damage it any more than it already is. We opted not to leave a thick coat of Goo Gone overnight, but we did just do a light wiping at the end of the day and leave a Goo Gone film on the floor overnight and it didn’t hurt anything.

STEP 3: Grossness layer one


This is layer one of what we scraped off the floor. It’s a mixture (we think) of carpet glue, Goo Gone, carpet padding, and probably some cat hair.

Again, that’s layer one.

STEP 4: Goo Gone time again!!

Yup, spray down that floor again and wait another 15ish minutes.

STEP 5: Grossness layer two

This is a two part step – one part scrub brush and one part scrub pad. These two work well together because the brush gets up bigger junk while the pad gets the smaller junk. 

Also have your razor blades and wallpaper scraper on hand. Scrub each section with the scrub brush, then go over it with the scraper again, and finish off with the scrub pad. By this point the floor should feel just kinda slippery, not sticky. If there’s sticky junk then scrape or brush it away!


See all this paint, too? The Goo Gone with scrubbers and razor took all that off!

STEP 6: Wash off the yuck!

Mix some Krud Kutter in some hot water and wash the floor with some rags. We tried sponges but they just spread the goo around so we don’t recommend it.


Tips, Tricks, and Warnings:

  • Wear ruinable clothing. This may go without saying, but expect your clothes to get ruined with glue, Goo Gone, and even the potential razor blade scrape if your shirt is baggy…
  • Use a towel as a knee pad. Not only is hardwood not knee-friendly, but you can also use the towel so that you can kneel on the wood when it’s gross without grossing up your knees, meaning you don’t have to take a bunch of knee-cleaning breaks. 
  • Spread the tarp out in the hall/next room over and just toss gunky stuff onto it as you go. We made the mistake of using a sheet (not waterproof) and ended up having to clean the hall after.
  • Have paper towels on hand to clean off your scrapers as you go. If there’s gunk on your scraper, you’re just spreading the mess around. Give it a good wipe every once in a while.
  • DO NOT wash the rags/towels in your washing machine! Goo Gone is oil based so it will gunk up your washer like crazy and do even worse damage to the parts you don’t see (the pipes). Even if you think the towels aren’t too gross, wash them outside with Dawn soap and a hose BEFORE throwing them into your washer. 
  • DO NOT wash your tools in your sink/bathtub! Re: above. The massive amounts of Goo Gone will ruin your drains. Wash them in a bucket outside with Dawn or better yet, throw them out! At the end of this project, my incredibly frugal mother and I threw out the bucket, a bunch of razors, the scrub brush, the scrub pad, and a utility knife – they just weren’t worth cleaning.
  • Vacuum the rug first. We thought, “eh, why vacuum if we’re just gonna tear the rug up anyway?” Because then the dirt will get in the glue and you’ll be scraping up chunks of dirt with your glue, that’s why. Gross.
  • If you’re frustrated, spray with Goo Gone and walk away. 9 times out of 10 if we couldn’t get a spot of glue up, we just hadn’t let it soak in Goo Gone for long enough.
  • Get this wallpaper scraper. I know I made a big deal out of this in the materials list, but I’m gonna do it again. It is so, so worth it. I am 100% not getting paid to tell you that we couldn’t have done this project without this scraper.

20191001_175244-1I’m so in love with my new hardwood floor I may marry it. It’s not perfect in the least, though. Actually as we peeled back the carpet, we theorized that the reason it was carpeted in the first place is due to a bad refinishing job. If you look closely in the sun glares, you can see that it’s a bit wavy and under the radiator the wood has been sanded about 1/8″ down from its original height. Plus the floor is stained a honey color that doesn’t match the rest of the house… but only my parents, husband, and I will notice that stuff, so I don’t care.

My wrists killed me for a week but it was worth it.

If you pull up a carpet in your house, let me know how it goes!

And keep an eye out: now that the gross carpet is gone, I have big plans for this room…